Ezra Klein’s experience matches mine:

I owe an apology to every kitschy Chinese restaurant I’ve ever rejected as aesthetically inauthentic. No one loves China kitsch more than the Chinese. Red lanterns, tiny figurines, caged birds, silk hostess dresses, dragon designs and everything else I associated with silly Chinese restaurants was present in places that had no idea what to do when Westerners walked in and tried to order food.

[To the tune of Mono, “The Flames Beyond the Cold Mountain,” from the album Ex Plex, Los Angeles, September 24, 2005 (a 3-star song, imo).]